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ZAMBIA Introduction Wildlife and Wildlife Area Kafue National Park Accommodation Victoria Falls Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park Accommodation

ZIMBABWE Introduction Wildlife and Wildlife Area Victoria Falls National Park Accommodation Accommodation Near Victoria Falls Zambezi National Park Accommodation Lake Kariba Matusadona National Park Accommodation

BOTSWANA The Okavango Delta Accommodation Chobe National Park Accommodation

A country rich in wildlife, Zambia was named after the mighty Zambezi River, which flows through southern Zambia. The Zambezi River is fed by its Kafue and Luangwa tributaries, and forms the boundary between Zambia and Zimbabwe before flowing through Mozambique — eventually emptying into the Indian Ocean. The three great lakes of Bangweulu, Mweru and Tanganyika are in northern Zambia, and Lake Kariba is found along the southeastern border adjacent to Zimbabwe.

The country is predominantly a high plateau ranging in altitude from 3,000 to 5,000 feet (915 to 1,525 m), which is why it has a subtropical rather than a tropical climate. April-August is cool and dry, September-October is hot and dry, and November-March is warm and wet. Winter temperatures are as cool as 43°F (6°C) and summer temperatures exceed 100°F (38°C). The dry season, with clear sunny skies, is May-October.

The Zambian people are predominantly composed of Bantu ethnic groups who practice a combination of traditional and Christian beliefs. English is the official language and is widely spoken, in addition to 73 other languages and dialects. In contrast to most African countries, over 40% of the population lives in urban areas, due mainly to the copper mining industry.

In 1888, emissaries of Cecil Rhodes signed “treaties” with African chiefs ceding mineral rights of what was proclaimed Northern Rhodesia, which came under British influence. In 1953, Northern Rhodesia, Southern Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe) and Nyasaland (now Malawi) were consolidated into the Federation of Rhodesia and Nyasaland. The Federation was dissolved in 1963. Northern Rhodesia achieved its independence on October 24, 1964, as the Republic of Zambia.

Zambia’s economy is based primarily on copper mined in the “Copper Belt” near the Congo border. Due to low copper prices over the last few decades, the economy was forced to diversify. More emphasis has since been placed on developing agriculture (exporting fruit, coffee, sugar), and the tourism industry, as greater sources of foreign exchange. Since the elections in 1991, Zambia has a multiparty political system.

Zambia provides fabulous options for the wildlife adventurer, including both night and day game drives by open vehicle, walking safaris using remote bush camps or mobile tented camps, canoe safaris and white-water rafting.

Zambia boasts 19 gazetted national parks covering over 24,000 square miles (60,000 km2), and with the 34 game management areas adjacent to the parks, the country has set aside 32% of its land for the preservation of wildlife. However, some of the national parks and reserves are not open to the general public.

The country’s four major parks are South Luangwa National Park, North Luangwa National Park, Lower Zambezi National Park and Kafue National Park. South Luangwa and the Lower Zambezi are the most popular of the four, largely due to their large concentrations of game.

Zambia is excellent for walking safaris, which are operated primarily in South Luangwa, North Luangwa, Lower Zambezi and Kafue National Parks. Virtually all of the camps offer morning walks and day and night game drives.

Fishing is very good for tigerfish in Lake Kariba and the Zambezi River, and for tigerfish, goliath tigerfish, Nile perch and lake salmon in Lake Tanganyika.

Visitors who have their own vehicles must return to the camps by nightfall, and, therefore, cannot conduct night safaris on their own; neither may they leave the roads in search of game or walk in the park without the company of an armed wildlife guard.

The best time to visit South Luangwa, Lower Zambezi and Kafue National Parks is June-October, when the grass level is low and game is easier to see. Many of the rivers will have dried up and the game is concentrated around the lagoons and oxbow lakes — making game viewing all the more spectacular. Game viewing is fairly good in November, April and May. December-March is the hot and humid rainy season when foliage becomes thicker, making wildlife more difficult to spot.

Kafue National Park, one of the largest in Africa, covers 8,687 square miles (22,400 km2), making it two and one-half times the size of South Luangwa National Park and half the size of Switzerland. Kafue has the largest number of different antelope species of any park in Africa. Many of the species, such as greater kudu and sable antelope, are said to be substantially larger than elsewhere in the country.

Visitors usually see a greater variety of species in Kafue, although not the quantity of wildlife that they might see in South Luangwa. The southern and central parts are open all year, and the northern area is open only during the dry season (June-October/November). Game is especially difficult to spot in the rainy season.

Game drives in this park are sometimes a combination of riding in a vehicle and walking, according to the wishes of the group. Lake Itezhi-Tezhi, formed as the result of a hydroelectric dam constructed at the southern end of the Kafue Flats, provides fishing, birdwatching and boating opportunities for visitors.

The Busanga Plains and marshes in the north have a greater number and variety of wildlife species. Animals are easier to spot here than in the dense woodland savanna in the south. This region is predominantly miombo forest, which gives way to savanna grasslands, along with rock hills, marshes and riverine forests. The Kafue River runs through the northern part of the park and along its east central border.

Large herds of red lechwe may be seen on the Busanga Plains. Sitatunga may be found in the Busanga Swamps on the northern border of the park. Lion are often seen on day and night game drives, with occasional encounters with cheetah and leopard. Also present on the plains are buffalo, elephant, puku, wildebeest, impala, roan antelope, sable antelope, greater kudu, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, waterbuck and hyena. More than 400 species of birds have been recorded. On my last visit we encountered elephant, puku, impala and whitetailed mongoose, among other wildlife, on an afternoon/evening game drive.

The fact that Kafue has the largest number of antelope species of any park in Africa became immediately evident the following day on a three-hour morning drive from Lunga River Lodge to the Busanga Plains, during which we spotted nine species: impala, puku, common duiker, sable antelope (herd of 34), Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, roan antelope, reedbuck, blue wildebeest and oribi.

To leave the forest and watch the expansive plains of Busanga open before our eyes was truly an amazing sight. The 350 square miles (900 km2) of plains are broken by numerous small palm “islands,” and have a feel of the openness of the short grass plains of the southeastern Serengeti coupled with the presence of water and landscape similar to Botswana’s Okavango Delta.

We witnessed lion chasing a puku across the plains, and saw yellow baboon, buffalo, hippo, side-striped jackal, large grey mongoose, warthog, Defassa waterbuck, Burchell’s zebra and zorilla. Birdlife was prolific.

During my last visit we only encountered a few other vehicles — most of which were from our own camp. This is definitely a park foranyone wanting to get off the beaten track! There is little to be seen on the four-hour, 170-mile (275-km) drive from Lusaka; scheduled group charter flights from Livingstone, Lusaka and Lower Zambezi National Park are available and are a better alternative. Mobile tented safaris are another way to explore the park. Most safari camps are open from June to October or November.

CLASS A: * Moshi Tented Camp, situated in the heart of the Busanga Plains, is an “old-fashioned” safari camp with eight luxury tents set on raised platforms with a small swimming pool.
CLASS A/B: * Lunga River Lodge has six thatched cabins with ensuite facilities. There is a swimming pool and steam bath, and a masseuse is available. Activities include walks, day and night game drives, canoeing and boating.
CLASS B: * Busanga Bush Camp has four thatched huts with ensuite facilities. Day and night game drives and walks are offered. Access to the camp is sometimes by canoe when water levels are high.
CLASS C: * Kafwala Camp overlooks the Kafwala Rapids and has chalets (some with ensuite facilities). Day and night game drives are offered. * Lufupa, situated in the center of the northern region near the confluence of the Kafue and Lufupa Rivers, has chalets (some with ensuite facilities) and offers day and night game drives, fishing and game viewing by boat.

Called Mosi-Oa-Tunya, “the smoke that thunders,” Victoria Falls is one of the seven natural wonders of the world. Visitors may walk along the Knife Edge Bridge for a good view of the Eastern Cataract and Boiling Pot.

A sunset cruise on the colonial African Queen is a very pleasant experience; hippo and crocodile are often seen. Fixed-wing aircraft flights over the falls are a great way to get a bird’s eye view of Victoria Falls.

Canoe safaris are conducted upstream of the falls. Fishing for tigerfish on the Zambezi River is best from June to October (September is best), before the rains muddy the water.

One of the world’s highest commercially run bungee jumps is operated on the bridge crossing the Zambezi River. After falling over 300 feet (100 m), a member of the bungee staff is lowered to the jumper and connects a cable to his harness. The jumper is winched into the upright position and then winched back up onto the bridge.

The Zambezi River below Victoria Falls is one of the most exciting white-water rafting experiences in the world. Numerous fifth-class rapids (the highest class runable) make this one of the most challenging rivers on earth. One-, two-, three- and seven-day trips are operated on the Zambezi River below Victoria Falls from the Zambia and/or Zimbabwe side of the Zambezi River. See the description of white-water rafting in the “Victoria Falls” section of the chapter on Zimbabwe for further details.

The falls are located about 3 miles (5 km) from Livingstone. See the chapter on Zimbabwe for a detailed description of the falls

Much of the area around the Victoria Falls on the Zambian side is positioned within the 4-square-mile (10 km2) Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park. Only a small section is fenced off into a game park that is well worth a visit. This small sanctuary protects five white rhino, plus sable, eland, warthog, giraffe, zebra, buffalo and elephant. There are two monuments within the park — one where the pioneers used to cross the river, and the other at the old cemetery. There are no large predators in the park.

CLASS A: * Sussi & Chuma Tree Lodge, a new luxury lodge built on the Zambezi River within Mosi-Oa Tunya National Park just a 10-minute drive above the Victoria Falls, has 10 large rooms with ensuite facilities and private decks. The main lodge consists of an upstairs sitting area and a nice downstairs patio area with a swimming pool. The camp offers tours to the Zambian side of Victoria Falls, Livingstone Museum visits, and a cultural tour to experience Zambian tribal villages, as well as game drives within Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park.

Thought by some to be the land of King Solomon’s mines, Zimbabwe (previously called Rhodesia) is a country blessed with good farmland, mineral wealth, beautiful and varied landscapes, and excellent game parks.

Most of Zimbabwe consists of a central plateau, 3,000-4,000 feet (915-1,220 m) above sea level. The highveld, or high plateau, stretches from southwest to northeast from 4,000 to 5,000 feet (1,220 to 1,525 m) with a mountainous region along the eastern border from 6,000 to 8,000 feet (1,830 to 2,440 m) in altitude.

The northern border is formed by the mighty Zambezi River, while the Limpopo River creates the division between Zimbabwe and South Africa in the south. The spectacular Victoria Falls were created by a fracture in the Zambezi Valley, which is an extension of the Great Rift Valley.

Zimbabwe is a land-locked country, but it is rich in biological diversity due to its proximity to the temperate south, tropical north and semi-arid west. Much of the country is a highland plateau at about 3,300 feet (1,000 m) above sea level on one of the world’s oldest granite formations. In the north and south, the Zambezi and Limpopo River valleys, respectively, create hot lowlands as well as international boundaries. The granite shield forms the main watershed of the country, with numerous spectacular rock formations. This plateau is dominated by miombo woodland, but is also ideal farming country, so much of the natural vegetation has been replaced.

The so-called Eastern Highlands are a chain of sandstone and basalt mountains, characterized by a cooler, wetter climate. The highest peaks rise above 6,500 feet (2,000 m). Temperate forests occur in patches from Nyanga to Chimanimani, and sub-tropical forests are found in the humid lowlands of the Honde, Burma and Rusitu valleys, which enter Mozambique. In the western part of the country, on the border with Botswana, deep Kalahari sands dominate in places and create yet another unique environment for wildlife.

The climate is moderate on the central plateau, but hot in the lowlying Zambezi and Limpopo valleys. Seasons are reversed from the northern hemisphere. Winter days (May-August) are generally dry and sunny with day temperatures averaging 59-68°F (15-20°C). Summer daytime temperatures average 77-86°F (25-30°C), and October is the hottest month. The rainy season is December-March.

The major ethnic groups are the Mashona and Ndebele. About 50% of the population is syncretic (part Christian and part traditional beliefs), 25% Christian, 24% traditional and 1% Hindu and Muslim. Twenty-five percent of the population lives in urban areas, with half of that 25% residing in the cities of Harare and nearby Chitungwiza. English is understood by a majority of the population.

In the first century, the region was inhabited by hunters related to the San Bushmen. Cecil Rhodes and the British South Africa Company took control in 1890, and the area was named Southern Rhodesia, which became a British colony in 1923. Prime Minister Ian Smith and the white minority declared unilateral independence from Britain on November 11, 1965. Zimbabwe officially became independent on April 18, 1980, with Robert Mugabe as president.

Main foreign exchange earners are tobacco, minerals, agriculture and tourism.

Zimbabwe has had more than its share of political and economic woes during the last few years. As of this writing, security at Zimbabwe’s major attractions (Victoria Falls, Hwange, Matobo, Matusadona and Mana Pools) has been fine, and tourists who have traveled there have been handsomely rewarded with excellent wildlife viewing and guiding in uncrowded parks.

Adventurers wishing to do more than view wildlife from a vehicle should seriously consider a safari in Zimbabwe. It offers the greatest variety of methods of wildlife viewing in Africa, including day and night game drives in open vehicles, boat game drives, walking, backpacking, canoeing, kayaking and travel by houseboat.

As mentioned earlier, the country is situated at the junction of three major climatic zones (temperate south, tropical northeast and semiarid west), and there is a resultant diversity of wildlife. All of Africa’s big-game species are here, as well as over 660 bird species and an amazing variety of reptiles, frogs and invertebrates. Plant life is equally impressive, from Afro-alpine proteas in the east to tropical baobabs in the hot valleys of the north and south. The distinctive miombo woodlands (dominated by Brachystegia trees) are characterized by a unique variety of plants and associated wildlife. Birdwatching is hugely rewarding and many ornithological groups visit the country.

Zimbabwe offers excellent and well-maintained parks and reserves. The country’s three premier reserves, which also rate among the best in Africa, are Hwange, Mana Pools and Matusadona National Parks. Hwange National Park is famous for its huge elephant population (over 25,000) and numerous large pans. Matusadona National Park, located along the southern shores of beautiful Lake Kariba, has enormous buffalo and elephant populations. During the dry season, Mana Pools on the Zambezi River has one of the highest concentrations of wildlife of any park on the continent.

Many of the safari camps cater to only six to 16 guests and offer personalized service, excellent accommodations and superb guiding. The professional guiding standards in Zimbabwe are, in fact, the highest of any country on the continent.

Instead of driving to the reserves, many people fly to the parks, taking advantage of scheduled charter flights connecting Victoria Falls, Hwange, Matobo Hills, Matusadona, Mana Pools and Harare. There are also a number of deluxe, first class and participation group or private mobile tented safaris available, during which guests are driven from park to park or combine driving and flying.

Game viewing is by open vehicle, and walking is allowed with a licensed Professional Guide who carries a high-caliber rifle at all times. Night game drives are conducted in some areas adjacent to the reserves and on some private concessions within the reserves.

Dr. David Livingstone became the first European man to see Victoria Falls on November 16, 1855, and named them after the British queen of his day. In his journal he wrote, “Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in flight.”

Victoria Falls is approximately 5,600 feet (1,700 m) wide, twice the height of Niagara Falls, and one and one-half times as wide. It is divided into five separate waterfalls: Devil’s Cataract, Main Falls, Horseshoe Falls, Rainbow Falls and Eastern Cataract, ranging in height from 200 to 355 feet (61 to 108 m).

Peak floodwaters usually occur around mid-April when 150 million gallons (625 million l) per minute crash onto the rocks below, spraying water up to 1,650 feet (500 m) in the air. During March-April, so much water is falling that the spray makes it difficult to see the falls. May-February is actually a better time to see them, but keep in mind that they are spectacular any time of the year.

Victoria Falls and the Zambezi River form the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. The banks of the 1,675-mile- (2,700-km) long Zambezi River, the fourth largest river in Africa and the only major river in Africa to flow into the Indian Ocean, are lined with thick riverine forest.

A rainbow over the falls can often be seen during the day and a lunar rainbow within a two- to four-night period over a full moon.

Fortunately, the area around the falls has not been commercialized on the Zimbabwe side of the falls, and there are unobstructed views from many vantage points, which are connected by paved paths. An entry fee (currently US $20.00) is required. Be prepared to get wet as you walk through a luxuriant rain forest surrounding the falls, a result of the continuous spray. A path called the Chain Walk descends from near Livingstone’s statue into the gorge of the Devil’s Cataract, which provides an excellent vantage point.

Victoria Falls can also be viewed from Zambia. Zambian visas for day visits are generally available at the border for most nationalities. Generally speaking, the falls are more impressive on the Zimbabwean side.

Mammals that can be seen in close proximity to the falls include the beautifully marked bushbuck, vervet monkey and banded mongoose. Birds to look out for include the noisy trumpeter hornbill, green pigeon and Schalow’s turaco, which feed on figs, and the rock pratincole, reed cormorant and giant kingfisher that may be found in the rapids above the falls. One of Africa’s rarest birds of prey, the diminutive Taita falcon, is frequently seen on the cliffs below the falls, alongside peregrine falcon, augur buzzard and Verreaux’s (black) eagle.

The Zambezi Nature Sanctuary has crocodiles up to 14 feet (4.3 m) in length and weighing close to 1,000 pounds (450 kg). The Craft Village in the middle of town has living quarters and other structures representing the traditional Zimbabwean life of the country’s major tribes, and it features the best African dance show in town. Tribal dancing may also be seen at the Boma Restaurant at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge. Big Tree is a giant baobab over 50 feet (15 m) in circumference, 65 feet (20 m) high and 1,000 — 1,500 years old.

Sundowner cruises operate above the falls, where hippo may be spotted and elephant and other wildlife may be seen coming to the shore to drink.

The “Flight of Angels,” a flight over the falls by helicopter (best choice) or in a small plane, is highly recommended to acquire a feeling for the true majesty of the falls. Game-viewing flights, upstream from the falls along the Zambezi River and over Victoria Falls National Park, are also available. It is best to reserve seats in advance.

One of the world’s highest commercially run bungee jumps is operated on the bridge crossing the Zambezi River. After falling over 300 feet (100 m), a member of the bungee staff is lowered to the jumper and connects a cable to his harness. The jumper is winched into the upright position and then winched back up onto the bridge.

Canoeing and kayaking safaris are a great way to explore the upper Zambezi, from near Kazungula to just above Victoria Falls. Adventurers pass numerous hippo, crocs, elephant and other wildlife as they paddle two-man kayaks or canoes on safaris ranging from a half-day to four days in length. No previous kayaking or canoeing experience is necessary. Accommodation is in tents with separate bush shower and toilet facilities. Half and full-day horseback rides around the Victoria Falls area are available for novice and experienced riders, while multi-day horseback safaris are available only for experienced riders. Morning and afternoon elephant back safaris (African elephants) provide another interesting way to experience the bush and to view some game, and they are less expensive than those offered in Botswana.

The upper Zambezi River offers one of the most exciting and challenging white-water rafting trips in the world. There are numerous fifth-class rapids, which are the highest class runable, and these can be experienced either with a professional oarsman at the helm or in a raft with everyone paddling.

One-, two-, three- and seven-day trips are operated on the Zambezi River below Victoria Falls from the Zambian and/or Zimbabwean side of the Zambezi River. No experience is required; just hang on and enjoy the ride! The one-day trip is rated as the wildest commercially run one-day trip in the world. For some travelers, this trip is a highlight of their safari.

For the even more adventurous, there is boogie boarding on the rapids. This is often done in conjunction with a half or full day of white-water rafting.

Around 8:30 a.m., rafters walk down into the gorge to the river’s edge where the rafting safari begins. Rafts with up to eight paddlers, or up to eight riders and one oarsperson, disappear from sight as they drop into deep holes and crash into waves over 12 feet (3.5 m) high, and they are further dwarfed by sheer cliffs that often rise hundreds of feet on both sides of the canyon.

Each group is usually accompanied by a professional kayaker who helps “rescue” those who have fallen out of the rafts.

At the end of the trip, rafters have to climb back out of the gorge to the top of the escarpment, about 700 feet (213 m) above. For most people, this is the most difficult part of the excursion.

For the one-day trip, I would suggest you wear a swimsuit and take a hat, sunglasses with something to tie them onto yourself, a shortsleeve shirt, sunscreen and tennis shoes (tackies) or Tevas (a type of sandal). For longer trips, obtain a checklist from your tour operator.

One-day trips are offered year-round, water levels permitting. Longer rafting safaris (two to seven days) are usually run August-December. Rafters must be 16 years of age or older to participate.

Hippo and crocs are seen from the second day onward on multi-day trips. Kudu and other wildlife can be seen on the banks, especially during the dry season. Camp is made on sandy riverbanks, and all meals are prepared by the staff. These multi-day trips are not for those who wish to be pampered. There are no facilities enroute.

The Victoria Falls Hotel, The Kingdom and Ilala Lodge have the advantage of being located nearest to the falls.
DELUXE: * Victoria Falls Hotel has maintained much of its colonial elegance, including colonial architecture, spacious terraces and colorful gardens, and it is only a 10-minute walk from Victoria Falls. The hotel has 181 air-conditioned rooms and suites with ensuite facilities, swimming pool and tennis courts. From the hotel you can see the bridge and the Zambezi Gorge. * Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, located a five-minute drive from the falls, has 72 stylishly decorated air-conditioned rooms and suites with ensuite facilities, and a swimming pool. The lodge is built under thatch and overlooks a floodlit water hole where wildlife may be seen coming to drink. Optional excursions to a hide overlooking a waterhole are offered. A complementary hourly shuttle service is available to Victoria Falls town and to the entrance to the falls. * Elephant Hills Intercontinental overlooks the Zambezi River a few miles upstream from Victoria Falls. The hotel has 276 rooms and suites with facilities ensuite, an exotic swimming pool, squash courts, tennis courts, a world-class 18-hole championship golf course, three restaurants and a conference center.
FIRST CLASS: * Ilala Lodge, a small, 32-room thatched lodge with ensuite facilities and a swimming pool, is located within walking distance to the falls. * The Kingdom Hotel is only a 10-minute walk from the falls and has 294 air-conditioned rooms with ensuite facilities, that are separated in two and three-story units, a casino, food court and swimming pool. This is a good hotel for families.
TOURIST CLASS: * Sprayview Hotel is a budget hotel with rooms with ensuite facilities located a little more than a mile (2 km) from the falls. * Rainbow Hotel is located near Victoria Falls village and has 88 airconditioned rooms with private facilities and a swimming pool. * The AZambezi River Lodge, one of the largest buildings under traditional thatch on the continent, is located 1.5 miles (2.5 km) from town on the banks of the Zambezi River. The lodge has a swimming pool and 83 airconditioned rooms with ensuite facilities. The hotel gives complementary scheduled transfers to the town and the falls.
CLASS D, F AND CAMPING: * Victoria Falls Rest and Caravan Park has self-catering cottages, a small hostel, camping and trailer (caravan) sites, swimming pool and restaurant.

CLASS A: * The Stanley and Livingstone, situated on a 6,075-acre (2430-hectare) private estate a 10-minute drive from the falls, has 10 suites with ensuite facilities. A raised patio overlooks nearby waterholes. * Elephant Camp, located on a private wildlife estate 15 miles (25 km) from Victoria Falls, offers morning and afternoon elephant rides (African elephants) and game drives. A maximum of eight guests are accommodated in four thatched cottages with ensuite facilities. *Sekuti’s Drift is a colonial-style 10-room lodge situated on top of a hill 9 miles (15 km) from Victoria Falls. * Masuwe Lodge is a 20-bed tented lodge located 4 miles (7 km) from Victoria Falls on a private game concession that adjoins Zambezi National Park. * Matetsi Safari Lodge and * Matetsi Water Lodge are situated on a private game reserve about a 45-minute drive from Victoria Falls. Matetsi Water Lodge has three riverside camps, each with six airconditioned ensuite bedrooms, fan-cooled living rooms and private splash pools. Matetsi Safari Lodge consists of a tented camp with 12 airconditioned luxury tents. Day and night game drives, walks, boat cruises, fishing and canoeing are offered. * Imbabala Camp, located on private land on the banks of the Zambezi River only a mile (2 km) from the Botswana border, has eight chalets (doubles) with ensuite facilities and a swimming pool. Day and night game drives by vehicle, boat game drives and fishing are offered.

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Victoria Falls National Park includes Victoria Falls as well as the 216-square-mile (560-km2) Zambezi National Park. The park is located west of the falls and extends for 25 miles (40 km) along the Zambezi River. Zambezi National Park is well known for its abundance of sable antelope, among other species, such as elephant, zebra, eland, buffalo, giraffe, lion, kudu and waterbuck.

Noteworthy birds include collared palm thrush, white-breasted cuckooshrike, racquet-tailed roller, African finfoot, Schalow’s turaco, Pel’s fishing owl and rock pratincole.

Day game drives, walks, canoeing and kayaking are offered from Victoria Falls. Fishing for tigerfish and tilapia is good. There are 30 sites along the river for picnicking and fishing (beware of crocodiles). Since the game reserve does not have all-weather roads, parts of it are usually closed during the rains from November 1 to May 1.

CLASS A/B: * Chamabondo Lodge, located in the Chamabondo Valley within Zambezi National Park overlooking a waterhole, has nine thatched lodges with private bathrooms. Game drives, escorted walks, and tours of the falls and cultural visits are offered.
CLASS D: * Zambezi National Park Lodges, scenically situated on the banks of the Zambezi, consist of 15 self-service lodges, each catering to a maximum of six people.

Sunsets over the waters of island-dotted Lake Kariba are rated among the most spectacular in the world. One of the largest man-made lakes on earth, covering over 1,970 square miles (5,100 km2) , Kariba was formed in 1958 by damming the Zambezi River. The lake is 175 miles (280 km) long and up to 20 miles (32 km) in width and is surrounded, for the most part, by untouched wilderness.

When the dam was completed and the waters in the valley began to rise, animals were forced to higher ground, which temporarily became islands that were soon to be submerged under the new lake. To save these helpless animals, Operation Noah was organized by Rupert Fothergill. Over 5,000 animals, including 35 different mammal species, numerous elephant and 44 black rhino, were rescued and released in what are now Matusadona National Park and the Chete Safari Area.

Lights from commercial kapenta fishing boats are often seen on the lake at night. Fishing is excellent for tigerfish, giant vundu, bream, chessa and nkupi. October is the optimum month for tigerfishing (although very hot), and November-April for bream. Bird life, especially waterfowl, is prolific and superb viewing of African fish eagles is guaranteed. Cormorants and kingfishers are in abundance.

The Lake Kariba Ferry usually takes 22 hours to cruise from Mlibizi (a few hours drive from Victoria Falls) to Kariba Town. If you are thinking of taking a vehicle through Zimbabwe from Victoria Falls to Kariba, this ferry will save you over 775 miles (1,250 km) of driving.

Situated on the southern shore of Lake Kariba and bounded on the east by the dramatic Sanyati Gorge and the west by the Umi River, this scenic 543-square-mile (1,407-km2) park has an abundance of elephant, lion, kudu, impala and buffalo — especially along the shoreline in the dry season (May-October). Other game includes sable antelope, roan antelope and waterbuck. Cheetah have been introduced into the area. Black rhino may be seen on walks, and leopard are occasionally spotted. Part of Matusadona is, in fact, an IPZ (Intensive Protection Zone) for rhino. On my last visit, within 30 minutes of my first game drive, we spotted two sets of two black rhino from the vehicle — outstanding!

En route to camp we stopped to see lion on a buffalo kill. On an afternoon game drive during another visit, we spotted elephant, impala, buffalo and a large male lion, and had an interesting excursion out tracking black rhino. During an afternoon boat ride, we spent more than half an hour watching two bull elephants frolicking in the water — locking tusks and at times completely submerging, then popping up with water hyacinth on their heads.

Game viewing by boat is a real attraction, and walking safaris are popular. Fishing is excellent, but beware of crocodiles. Private mobile tented safaris with Professional Guides are another great way to experience the bush. Motor yachts complete with captain, staff and Professional Guide provide private parties with great freedom and comfort in exploring the region. Multi-day hiking and backpacking trips provide other options for adventure.

CLASS A: * Matusadona Water Wilderness, located in a secluded area of the lake within the park, has one group of four and another group of five floating houseboats (18 beds) with facilities ensuite, moored near two central dining houseboats. Game walks, canoeing, vehicle game drives and sunset boat cruises are offered. * Rhino Island Safari Camp, situated near Elephant Point, has six chalets with ensuite bathrooms, and are set on wooden platforms with thatched roofs. Activities include game viewing drives and walks within the park and boat cruises on the lake along the Matusadona shoreline. * Sanyati Lodge, situated on the Sanyati Gorge, just outside the western border of the park, has 11 air-conditioned ensuite luxury lodges, including a Honeymoon Suite and Presidential Suite, and a gym and plunge pool. Boat and vehicle game drives and fishing are offered. Escorted walks can be arranged. * Musango has eight ensuite tents including two honeymoon tents with private plunge pools and a swimming pool. Walks, vehicle and boat game drives, canoeing, visits to dinosaur fossil sights, villages and the rhino orphanage are offered. * Kiplings Lodge, located at the mouth of the Ume River on the lake, has 10 rooms with ensuite facilities and a plunge pool. Day game drives, walks, canoeing, boat game drives and fishing are offered. * Katete Lodge, set on a hill west of the park, has 16 rooms with ensuite facilities and a swimming pool. Day and night vehicle game drives in a private wilderness area, boat game drives, walks and village visits are offered. * Bumi Hills Lodge, located on the western outskirts of the park on a hill overlooking the lake, has 20 well-appointed luxury rooms with ensuite facilities and a swimming pool. Walks, day and night game drives by vehicle in a private wilderness area, game drives by boat, fishing and village visits are offered.
CLASS B: * Kaingwe Tented Camp is a six-bed camp located at the tip of Spurwing Island, with ensuite flush toilets and bush showers. Walks and vehicle and boat game drives are offered. * Maronga Tented Camp, a 20-mile (30-km) boat transfer up from Musango Camp, has four tents with bucket showers and flush toilets, and caters to a maximum of sixguests. * Spurwing Island is a 40-bed camp with tents, cabins and thatched chalets with ensuite facilities and a swimming pool. Walks, game drives by vehicle and by boat, and fishing are offered. * Fothergill Island Safari Camp has 10 A-frame thatched lodges (32 beds) with facilities ensuite and a swimming pool. Game viewing on foot, by boat and by vehicle is offered, as are fishing excursions. * Gache Gache, situated on Lake Kariba an hour east of Matusadona by boat, has 10 thatched lodges (20 beds) with ensuite facilities and a swimming pool. Game drives by boat and vehicle as well as walks in a private wilderness area are offered.
CLASS C: * Lake Wilderness has two houseboats with shared facilities, accommodating up to eight guests each, and a few smaller houseboats (doubles). Walks and game viewing by both boat and vehicle are offered.
CLASS D: The National Park has two self-service camps — Ume andMbalabala; each camp may be booked by only one party.
CAMPING: The two National Park Campsites, Tashinga and Sanyati, have ablution blocks.

The Okavango, covering over 6,000 square miles (15,000 km2), is a natural mosaic of palm-fringed islands, open savanna, fast flowing rivers, crystal-clear lagoons and floodplains sprinkled with water lilies, and gigantic baobab and jackalberry trees. The Okavango River originates in the central African highlands about 600 miles (1,000 km) northwest of Botswana, then it fans out into the Kalahari Desert to create a vast system of thousands of waterways, separated by innumerable islands, and it eventually disappears into the Kalahari sands.

The opportunities to explore and experience the wonder of this inland delta and enjoy the primordial silence, unusual flora, bird life, hippo, crocs, and excellent fishing, are well worth the visit. Game viewing for the larger land mammal species is excellent in many parts of the Delta. Large herds of buffalo, elephant, giraffe and a variety of antelope are often seen. Lion, leopard, cheetah and other predators are also frequently encountered.

Crocodiles are most heavily concentrated in the larger waterways and in the northern part of the Delta and the panhandle, where there is permanent, deep water. However, crocs are found throughout the Delta.

The Okavango, an ornithologist’s and botanist’s dream come true, is beautifully presented in Okavango – Africa’s Last Eden (Hale Publishers)by Frans Lanting, ‘Running Wild’ (Southern Book Publishers) by Nico McNutt and Dave and Helene Hamman, Okavango: Sea of Land, Land of Water (Struik Publishers) by Peter Johnson and Anthony Bannister, Okavango: Jewel of the Kalahari by Karen Ross (Macmillan Publishing) and Okavango – Africa’s Wetland Wilderness (Struik Publishers) by Adrian Bailey. Mother Nature must have smiled on this region, for the waters are highest during the peak of the dry season. It takes six months for the rainy season floodwaters to travel from their source in the Angolan highlands to the Delta.

Flying into the Delta gives you an overall perspective of the region and is an adventure in itself. Game can be easily spotted and photographed from the air. A 150-mile- (240-km) long buffalo fence has been constructed along the southern and western edges of the Delta to keep cattle from moving into the pristine natural areas. The villages and their cattle are to the west and south of the fence therefore, little game is found on the Maun (southern) side.

Calling the Okavango a “swamp” is a misnomer, since the waters are very clear and are continually moving. The clarity is mainly due to the fact that the waters carry little sediment. There is only about a 203-foot (63-m) drop in altitude over 150 miles (240 km) from the upper to the lower Delta. In addition, the larger stands of papyrus in both the panhandle and in the north act as a large filtration plant, filtering out impurities and helping to keep the waters crystal clear. Very little bilharzia (a snail-borne disease) exists in the area; the only real problem region is around Maun, where the waters can become stagnant.

Activities in the Delta include mokoro (dugout canoe) and modern canoe excursions, boat game drives, day and night vehicle game drives, nature walks on islands, bird watching, and fishing on request. Motor boats allow you to visit more distant attractions, and they must be used for fishing or where the water is too deep to pole a mokoro or canoe. Where there is access by land, a 4wd vehicle is necessary.

The best way to experience the majesty of the Okavango Delta waterways is by mokoro. Traveling by mokoro allows you to become a part of the environment. Sitting inches from the waterline, thoughts of hippos or crocodiles overturning your boat cross your mind but soon pass with assurances from your guide and the peacefulness of the pristine environment.

Patterns of gold are created by the reflection of papyrus on the still waters of the narrow channels during early morning and late afternoon. You sometimes pass through channels that often appear to be narrower than the boat itself. Silence is broken only by the ngashi (boatman’s pole) penetrating and leaving the water, by the cries of countless birds and by the movement of game along the Delta’s banks. Tiny frogs chime to an unknown melody. Sunsets with rosy pink clouds reflect in the waters and create the illusion of floating in the sky. Life slows to a regenerative pace. This relaxed form of adventure and exploration is difficult to match anywhere in the world. On one occasion, I tried poling our canoe across a small lagoon. My guide was right, it’s definitely not as easy as it looks!

Guided excursions, ranging in length from a few hours to a full day, using mekoro (plural for mokoro), canoes or small motor boats, are offered by many camps in the Delta. Canoes are larger and therefore a little more comfortable, but mekoro harmonize better with the natural surroundings. To minimize cutting the large trees in the Delta, many camps use specially built fiberglass mekoro, which look and
move like the real thing — without a cost to the woodlands. Mokoro trips for two or more days, during which you camp on remote islands in the Delta, are possible when booked in advance.

On one mokoro trip, we spotted an elusive sitatunga antelope running through the reeds. Sitatunga are rare, shy, solitary antelope that are not often seen, and a real highlight if spotted.

The islands in the Delta are created by many natural geological forces. Another of the causes for islands are termites, whose mounds have been built up over the eons. Because of the cement-like quality of termite mounds, the soil is sometimes dug up and used to build elevated paths in camps and even airstrips. Meanwhile, diamond prospectors inspect termite mounds closely. Since soil is brought up from quite a depth, it provides them with easily accessible core samples.

During a day game drive in the Jao Concession, we witnessed one of the most incredible sightings — a leopard stalking and killing a red lechwe antelope. As the leopard held on to the lechwe’s neck, the antelope fought and tossed the leopard about for several minutes,until the lechwe finally succumbed. Later that day we spotted five lion, giraffe, a variety of other species — and hundreds of red lechwe - the ones that got away!

On yet another day game drive in the Delta, we saw a pride of 19 lion on a buffalo kill. On a night drive, we also observed an aardwolf and a large spotted genet, along with other general game. The next morning, by mokoro, we saw large herds of red lechwe, a hippo out of water, and myriad bird species. I had forgotten how relaxing it was! That afternoon, on the way to the dock, we spotted two leopard. As we approached them, the leopard ran off, and we found a reedbuck kill they had abandoned. We then went by motorboat to an island for sundowners (drinks and snacks), and we traveled through channels surrounded by thick papyrus and reeds. From the looks of it, thiscould have been Tarzan and Jane’s island.

We returned to the dock in the dark and drove to the location of the previous leopard sighting. Just as we drove up, we saw two leopard cubs run up a tree followed closely by their mother, who was chased about 20 feet up the tree by a female lion! The mother leopard came down the tree two more times, and was again chased up the tree by the lioness — seemingly to tease the lioness who had stolen their kill! The following morning, on a game drive, we saw three giraffe, two cheetah males, a pride of four lion, wattled crane, lilac-breasted roller, tawny eagle, fish eagle and bateleur eagles.

One of the real highlights of any safari is to sight African wild dogs, and the Okavango is one of Africa’s last refuges for this rare and endangered animal.

As might be expected of an inland delta, the Okavango is a haven for birds and a huge attraction for birdwatchers from around the world. There is a bewildering variety of aquatic species, and the Okavango boasts the highest concentration of African fish eagles on the continent. There are good numbers of the awe-inspiring Pel’s fishing owl and the seasonally breeding African skimmers. On numerous occasions our guide waved a fish in the air and called to a fish eagle perched high in a tree over a half-mile away, then tossed the fish into the water about 30 feet (9 m) from the boat. Like magic, the eagle dived down at full speed and plucked the fish from the water. You must be fast with a camera to catch that on film!

Large, mixed aggregations of waterfowl are common during the dry winter months, when the Angolan floodwaters fill up the seasonal wetlands. It is not uncommon to see five or six species of heron alongside four or five varieties of stork, with ducks, waders, cormorants and kingfishers - all gathered in the shallows or surrounding vegetation. The beautiful African pygmy goose, lesser jacana, slaty egret, wattled crane and the goliath heron are among the most sought-after birds.

It is not only waterfowl that populate the Okavango Delta, for the surrounding savanna and riverine woodlands provide ideal habitats for a host of hornbills, parrots, woodpeckers, rollers, shrikes, plovers, waxbills, weavers and bee-eaters, among others. Northern Botswana (and, indeed, the whole country) is renowned as a stronghold for birds of prey, with substantial populations of martial eagle, bateleur, tawny eagle, white-headed vulture, to name just a few.

Bird species we spotted on a recent visit included the coppery-tailed coucal, purple heron, striped kingfisher, Meyer’s parrot, black collared barbet, yellow-fronted tinker barbet, hamerkop, red-billed woodhoopoe, saddle-billed stork, Dickinson’s kestrel, lesser spotted eagle, grey lourie, carmine bee-eater (they are migrants that are found in the Okavango from late August to March), slaty egret (a real birder’s highlight!), little egret, reed cormorant, wattled crane, greenbacked heron, goliath heron, blacksmith plover, pied kingfisher, yellow-billed kite, western banded snake eagle, African darter, African jacana and numerous fish eagles.

Coasting along one afternoon in a small motorboat, we drove right by an 8-foot- (2.4-m) long crocodile. We went back for a closer look and discovered it was fast asleep. We maneuvered the boat within 5 feet (1.5 m) of it, and it still didn’t wake up — and I’m glad it didn’t! Fishing is best in the northwestern part of the Delta. The best time of the year for catching tigerfish is September-November. For barbel, the best time is from the end of September through October, when the fish are running (migrating). Overall, the best time for fishing is September-December.

Horseback safaris, possibly the finest in Africa, last from two to 10 days. Four to six hours a day are spent in the saddle. Afternoons are often spent walking, swimming, fishing or on mokoro trips. Only experienced riders are allowed, because they must be able to confidently canter alongside herds of game, including zebra, giraffe and antelope. Accommodations are usually in mobile tented camps.

An elephant-back safari on an African elephant is a unique way of experiencing the bush. Guests can fly to Abu’s Camp for a six-day safari, during which they join Abu, the lead elephant, along with his family of several adults and youngsters. Another option is Stanleys Camp, where guests may walk with trained elephants. If you wish to visit Tsodilo Hills (see below) to see the bushmen and rock paintings, consider making reservations in advance. By booking in advance, you can fly from your camp in the Okavango to the Nxamaseri or Shakawe airstrip and then be driven to the hills.

One issue to consider when visiting the Okavango Delta is the water levels and how they can affect a camp, its access and your activities. Each year the Okavango presents a different scenario to its inhabitants and its visitors. The changes are caused by the varying yearly rainfall in central Africa. The annual flood is an eagerly awaited event, and the levels of the incoming water have an enormous impact on the region. A safari camp, after a low flood, may be surrounded by huge, open grassland savannas. The next year, that same camp may be surrounded by water as the result of an extremely high flood, and the game viewing areas will have moved. This is all part of the fun of traveling to the Okavango. It’s a dynamic and constantly changing system!

When the floods arrive, much of the savanna is submerged – forcing the wildlife to concentrate on fewer and smaller islands. The area covered by game drives may be reduced; however, the drives are often more productive.

CLASS A+: * Jao Camp, one of the most luxurious camps in Botswana, is located in a private concession area west of the Moremi Game Reserve. This beautiful camp has nine large tented rooms with a lounge area and ensuite bathrooms, all under a thatched roof. Each room has an outdoor shower and a “sala” with mattresses under thatch, for great midday siestas. Activities include day and night game drives in open vehicles, boat game drives (usually May-October, depending on water levels), mokoro (dugout canoe) trips to explore the crystal-clear channels, islands and waterways, and walks. Guests staying for three or more nights may spend one night under the stars in a fly camp. * Abu’s Camp is a 10-bed, deluxe tented camp with ensuite facilities. Elephant-back safaris, mokoro rides, walks and vehicular game drives are offered.
CLASS A: * Duba Plains accommodates a maximum of 12 guests in luxury tents with ensuite bathroom facilities, including inside and outside showers, and is located in a remote region of the Delta. Game drives, walks and mokoro excursions (depending on the water level) are available. There is a pool and a hide overlooking a waterhole at the back of the camp. One of Africa’s highest concentrations of lion exist there, feeding off of the tremendous buffalo herds. * Kwetsani Camp is a 10-bed luxury tented camp, located in the same private concession area as Jao. The camp is raised on stilts beneath the shady canopy that overlooks the expansive plains. The five spacious tented “tree-house” chalets are built under a thatch roof, and all have ensuite facilities, including a shower, flush toilet, basin and outdoor shower. Guests staying three or more nights may spend one night in a fly camp. * Little Vumbura Camp offers a private location in the northern area of the Delta that borders Moremi. It has five large, luxury tented rooms, each with full ensuite facilities and outdoor shower. The main dining area has a decked lounge and a pool. It offers both water and land activities, including boat game drives, game viewing by mokoro, day and night game drives, and walks. * Vumbura Camp is located in the northern part of the Delta and has eight luxury tents with ensuite bathroom and an outdoor shower. Day and night game viewing by vehicle, mokoro excursions, walks, boat game drives and fishing are offered. * Nxabega Okavango Safari Camp has nine beautifully furnished East-African-styletents with ensuite facilities. Activities include game drives, walks and mokoro rides. * Eagle Island Camp at Xaxaba is situated in the Delta west of Chief’s Island and has 12 reed-and-thatch chalets with ensuite facilities. Activities include mokoro rides, walks and sundowner cruises. * Camp Okavango is a 22-bed tented camp in the eastern Delta with private facilities located down a private walkway behind each tent. Activities include mokoro safaris, boat trips and walks.
CLASS A/B: * Tubu Tree Camp, situated in the Jao Concession, is a tree house-style tented safari camp built on to raised wooden platforms to take best advantage of the beautiful view over the floodplains. The camp sleeps a maximum of 10 guests in five large, comfortable tents, each with small, private decks, ensuite bathroom facilities and private outdoor shower. The main dining and lounge areas are also housed in large tents on raised platforms. Activities include day and night game drives in open 4wd vehicles, as well as walks with an armed guide. When the Okavango’s annual flood is at its highest (normally May to late September), boating, fishing and mokoro trips are also offered. * Kaparota is a luxury camp (eight guests maximum) with tents raised on wooden decks overlooking the surrounding islands and floodplains. The bathrooms are ensuite and open-aired because the camp targets the slightly more adventurous traveler. Day and night game drives, guided walks, mekoros rides and boat game drives are offered. * Pom Pom has six deluxe tents (12 beds), with ensuite facilities, overlooking a lagoon in the central Delta. Activities include day and night game drives, walks and mokoro rides. * Jacana Camp, an 8-bed camp set in the Jao Concession, is primarily a water camp that offers mokoro excursions, boat game drives and escorted walks. Day and night game drives are generally possible by vehicle September-May, when the water levels are lower. * Shinde Island Camp has eight deluxe tents (16 beds) with private facilities situated a few feet behind each tent, and a small swimming pool. Activities include mokoro trips, boat rides, fishing, walks and game drives. * Xugana Island Camp has eight reed chalets (16 beds) built on stilts, with ensuite facilities and a swimming cage. Xugana offers boat rides, mokoro trips, walks and fishing. * Stanleys Camp is a 16-bed tented camp offering game drives and mokoro excursions, when water levels allow it. For an additional fee, guests may spend time walking with trained elephants.
CLASS B: * Nxamaseri Camp, located in the panhandle of the Delta, is one of the top fishing camps in the Okavango. Boat game drives are also offered. * Delta Camp has eight reed chalets with ensuite facilities. Walks and mokoro excursions are offered. * Xudum Camp is a 16-bed tented camp with ensuite facilities. Day and night game drives, walks, fishing and mokoro excursions are offered. * Starling’s Camp is a 16-bed tented camp with ensuite facilties offering day and night game drives and walks. Mokoro and boat game drives are offered seasonally.

Famous for its large herds of elephant, Chobe National Park covers about 4,250 square miles (11,000 km2) and is beautifully depicted in Chobe — Africa’s Untamed Wilderness (Southern Book Publishers), by Daryl and Sharna Balfour. The park is situated only about 50 miles (80 km) from Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, and the Chobe River forms its northern and northwestern boundaries. Across the river is Namibia’s Caprivi Strip. Bird life is prolific, especially in the riverine areas.

The four main regions of the park are the northeast near Kasane, the Corridor around Ngwezumba and Nogatsaa, a portion of the Linyanti Swamps in the northwest, and the Savute (discussed above) in the west.

Northern Chobe is famous for its huge elephant and buffalo populations, which number in the thousands. Lion are often seen. The elephant are some of the most vocal and active I’ve encountered on the continent, constantly trumpeting, making mock charges and sometimes sparring with each other. Great entertainment!

Game viewing by boat along the Chobe River can be spectacular, especially May-November in the dry season. Often large herds of elephant and a variety of other wildlife come down to the river to drink. On my last three visits we witnessed herds of 50-100 elephant swimming across the river at sunset. Mothers were assisting several babies in the herd to make it across. Once they reached the riverbank, the herds had dust baths and wandered off into the bush. This is an excellent park for boat game drives!

On a recent vehicle game drive we saw over 100 elephant, a pride of lion, greater kudu, hippo, sable antelope, fish eagles and crocs.

Game viewing is actually very good during the mid-day at this park, as well as in the mornings and late afternoons. Animals can be seen making their way to the river to drink and may be seen along the river’s edge at close range by both boat and vehicle.

Along the Chobe River, between the Chobe Game Lodge and the village of Kasane, you are likely to see numerous hippo, red lechwe, puku, common waterbuck, warthog and guinea fowl. Driving from the lodge toward the old Serondela Campsite, you can usually see giraffe, impala, zebra and occasionally kudu and Chobe bushbuck. Large monitor lizards are commonly seen.

The hot and dry Corridor (Ngwezumba to Nogatsaa) is one of the few areas in the country where oribi is found. Gemsbok, eland, ostrich and steenbok are sometimes seen. Prevalent species include giraffe, elephant, roan and sable antelope. The large populations of both resident and migratory elephant have inflicted severe damage on the riverine forest along the Chobe River, virtually eliminating the band of evergreen trees within the national park. Opinions vary as to whether this is a natural phenomenon or a result of too many elephants being hemmed in.

 

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