The information in this section is reproduced from Mark W. Nolting's book, Africa's Top Wildlife Countries, Revised 6th Edition. This content cannot be reproduced without authorization of the author. To purchase Mark's book, please visit: www.africa-adventure.com/dsp_products.html.

ZAMBIA Introduction Wildlife and Wildlife Area Lower Zambezi National Park Accommodation

ZIMBABWE Introduction Wildlife and Wildlife Area Mana Pools National Park Accommodation

A country rich in wildlife, Zambia was named after the mighty Zambezi River, which flows through southern Zambia. The Zambezi River is fed by its Kafue and Luangwa tributaries, and forms the boundary between Zambia and Zimbabwe before flowing through Mozambique — eventually emptying into the Indian Ocean. The three great lakes of Bangweulu, Mweru and Tanganyika are in northern Zambia, and Lake Kariba is found along the southeastern border adjacent to Zimbabwe.

The country is predominantly a high plateau ranging in altitude from 3,000 to 5,000 feet (915 to 1,525 m), which is why it has a subtropical rather than a tropical climate. April-August is cool and dry, September-October is hot and dry, and November-March is warm and wet. Winter temperatures are as cool as 43°F (6°C) and summer temperatures exceed 100°F (38°C). The dry season, with clear sunny skies, is May-October.

The Zambian people are predominantly composed of Bantu ethnic groups who practice a combination of traditional and Christian beliefs. English is the official language and is widely spoken, in addition to 73 other languages and dialects. In contrast to most African countries, over 40% of the population lives in urban areas, due mainly to the copper mining industry.

In 1888, emissaries of Cecil Rhodes signed “treaties” with African chiefs ceding mineral rights of what was proclaimed Northern Rhodesia, which came under British influence. In 1953, Northern Rhodesia, Southern Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe) and Nyasaland (now Malawi) were consolidated into the Federation of Rhodesia and Nyasaland. The Federation was dissolved in 1963. Northern Rhodesia achieved its independence on October 24, 1964, as the Republic of Zambia.

Zambia’s economy is based primarily on copper mined in the “Copper Belt” near the Congo border. Due to low copper prices over the last few decades, the economy was forced to diversify. More emphasis has since been placed on developing agriculture (exporting fruit, coffee, sugar), and the tourism industry, as greater sources of foreign exchange. Since the elections in 1991, Zambia has a multiparty political system.

Zambia provides fabulous options for the wildlife adventurer, including both night and day game drives by open vehicle, walking safaris using remote bush camps or mobile tented camps, canoe safaris and white-water rafting.

Zambia boasts 19 gazetted national parks covering over 24,000 square miles (60,000 km2), and with the 34 game management areas adjacent to the parks, the country has set aside 32% of its land for the preservation of wildlife. However, some of the national parks and reserves are not open to the general public.

The country’s four major parks are South Luangwa National Park, North Luangwa National Park, Lower Zambezi National Park and Kafue National Park. South Luangwa and the Lower Zambezi are the most popular of the four, largely due to their large concentrations of game.

Zambia is excellent for walking safaris, which are operated primarily in South Luangwa, North Luangwa, Lower Zambezi and Kafue National Parks. Virtually all of the camps offer morning walks and day and night game drives.

Fishing is very good for tigerfish in Lake Kariba and the Zambezi River, and for tigerfish, goliath tigerfish, Nile perch and lake salmon in Lake Tanganyika.

Visitors who have their own vehicles must return to the camps by nightfall, and, therefore, cannot conduct night safaris on their own; neither may they leave the roads in search of game or walk in the park without the company of an armed wildlife guard.

The best time to visit South Luangwa, Lower Zambezi and Kafue National Parks is June-October, when the grass level is low and game is easier to see. Many of the rivers will have dried up and the game is concentrated around the lagoons and oxbow lakes — making game viewing all the more spectacular. Game viewing is fairly good in November, April and May. December-March is the hot and humid rainy season when foliage becomes thicker, making wildlife more difficult to spot.

Located along the Zambezi River across from Mana Pools National Park (Zimbabwe), the Lower Zambezi National Park extends 75 miles (120 km) along the Zambezi River between the Chongwe River on the west and nearly to the Luangwa River to the East, and approximately 20 miles (35 km) inland.

Walks, day and night game drives, and boat game drives are arranged to see elephant, buffalo, lion and a variety of antelope, and fishing is also offered. This is certainly one of the best parks in Africa! While driving from the airstrip to camp on my most recent visit, we found a large male lion (Stumpy) with two females. Other game spotted during the day were five more lion, one leopard, large herds of elephant and buffalo, several bushbuck, common waterbuck and impala.

On the evening game drive we saw two civet, two genet, six lion killing an impala, mating porcupine, white-tailed mongoose, large grey mongoose, banded mongoose, side-striped jackal, giant eagle owl and barn owl.

The following evening we went for a sundowner upstream on the pontoon boat, and after dark, drifted downstream to spot game on shore.

The next day, on a three-hour fishing excursion, I caught over a dozen tigerfish weighing six to 10 pounds. For a half an hour I fought what I thought was a giant vundu — but later turned out to be a 6- foot croc. You can see that catch recorded in Chiawa Camp’s record book!

One afternoon we canoed for two hours along the narrow, beautiful Chifungulu Channel downstream from Sausage Tree Camp. We encountered an abundance of game and had to wait about 15 minutes for a lone hippo to move downstream and out of our path before canoeing the last 200 yards (200m) to the pullout point. While driving to the airstrip the following morning, we drove through a breeding herd of 150 elephant that interestingly enough included a large number of bachelors, which in most regions are booted out of the herd at a much earlier age.

Game viewing is best July-October and is good in May and June. The best fishing months are September, October, and the first two weeks of November.

CLASS A: * Sausage Tree Camp has seven tents with ensuite open-air bathrooms with bucket showers and flush toilets. Day and night game drives, boat game drives, fishing, walking and canoeing are offered. Guests call the office from their tents using old wind-up telephones to request escorts to the dining tent. * Chiawa Camp, located on the banks of the Zambezi River within the park, has eight new spacious tents under thatch with facilities ensuite, set on elevated wooden platforms. The charming thatched lounge/bar area has an upstairs observation deck and lounge, as well. Day and night vehicle game drives, day and night boat game drives, visits to the hide, fishing (it is excellent here), canoeing and walking are offered.
CLASS A/B: * Old Mondoro Bushcamp, located on the banks of the Zambezi River within the park, has four reedand- pole rooms with canvas roofs and ensuite facilities. The focus is on walking trails; game drives, boat safaris and canoeing are also available. Many guests will spend a few nights here along with a few nights at either Chiawa or Sausage Tree camps, because they are located in different regions of the park and favor different activities. * Mwambashi Camp has eight tents with ensuite bathrooms. Day and night game drives, walks in the bush and boat game drives are offered.

Thought by some to be the land of King Solomon’s mines, Zimbabwe (previously called Rhodesia) is a country blessed with good farmland, mineral wealth, beautiful and varied landscapes, and excellent game parks.

Most of Zimbabwe consists of a central plateau, 3,000-4,000 feet (915-1,220 m) above sea level. The highveld, or high plateau, stretches from southwest to northeast from 4,000 to 5,000 feet (1,220 to 1,525 m) with a mountainous region along the eastern border from 6,000 to 8,000 feet (1,830 to 2,440 m) in altitude.

The northern border is formed by the mighty Zambezi River, while the Limpopo River creates the division between Zimbabwe and South Africa in the south. The spectacular Victoria Falls were created by a fracture in the Zambezi Valley, which is an extension of the Great Rift Valley.

Zimbabwe is a land-locked country, but it is rich in biological diversity due to its proximity to the temperate south, tropical north and semi-arid west. Much of the country is a highland plateau at about 3,300 feet (1,000 m) above sea level on one of the world’s oldest granite formations. In the north and south, the Zambezi and Limpopo River valleys, respectively, create hot lowlands as well as international boundaries. The granite shield forms the main watershed of the country, with numerous spectacular rock formations. This plateau is dominated by miombo woodland, but is also ideal farming country, so much of the natural vegetation has been replaced.

The so-called Eastern Highlands are a chain of sandstone and basalt mountains, characterized by a cooler, wetter climate. The highest peaks rise above 6,500 feet (2,000 m). Temperate forests occur in patches from Nyanga to Chimanimani, and sub-tropical forests are found in the humid lowlands of the Honde, Burma and Rusitu valleys, which enter Mozambique. In the western part of the country, on the border with Botswana, deep Kalahari sands dominate in places and create yet another unique environment for wildlife.

The climate is moderate on the central plateau, but hot in the lowlying Zambezi and Limpopo valleys. Seasons are reversed from the northern hemisphere. Winter days (May-August) are generally dry and sunny with day temperatures averaging 59-68°F (15-20°C). Summer daytime temperatures average 77-86°F (25-30°C), and October is the hottest month. The rainy season is December-March.

The major ethnic groups are the Mashona and Ndebele. About 50% of the population is syncretic (part Christian and part traditional beliefs), 25% Christian, 24% traditional and 1% Hindu and Muslim. Twenty-five percent of the population lives in urban areas, with half of that 25% residing in the cities of Harare and nearby Chitungwiza. English is understood by a majority of the population.

In the first century, the region was inhabited by hunters related to the San Bushmen. Cecil Rhodes and the British South Africa Company took control in 1890, and the area was named Southern Rhodesia, which became a British colony in 1923. Prime Minister Ian Smith and the white minority declared unilateral independence from Britain on November 11, 1965. Zimbabwe officially became independent on April 18, 1980, with Robert Mugabe as president.

Main foreign exchange earners are tobacco, minerals, agriculture and tourism.

Zimbabwe has had more than its share of political and economic woes during the last few years. As of this writing, security at Zimbabwe’s major attractions (Victoria Falls, Hwange, Matobo, Matusadona and Mana Pools) has been fine, and tourists who have traveled there have been handsomely rewarded with excellent wildlife viewing and guiding in uncrowded parks.

Adventurers wishing to do more than view wildlife from a vehicle should seriously consider a safari in Zimbabwe. It offers the greatest variety of methods of wildlife viewing in Africa, including day and night game drives in open vehicles, boat game drives, walking, backpacking, canoeing, kayaking and travel by houseboat.

As mentioned earlier, the country is situated at the junction of three major climatic zones (temperate south, tropical northeast and semiarid west), and there is a resultant diversity of wildlife. All of Africa’s big-game species are here, as well as over 660 bird species and an amazing variety of reptiles, frogs and invertebrates. Plant life is equally impressive, from Afro-alpine proteas in the east to tropical baobabs in the hot valleys of the north and south. The distinctive miombo woodlands (dominated by Brachystegia trees) are characterized by a unique variety of plants and associated wildlife. Birdwatching is hugely rewarding and many ornithological groups visit the country.

Zimbabwe offers excellent and well-maintained parks and reserves. The country’s three premier reserves, which also rate among the best in Africa, are Hwange, Mana Pools and Matusadona National Parks. Hwange National Park is famous for its huge elephant population (over 25,000) and numerous large pans. Matusadona National Park, located along the southern shores of beautiful Lake Kariba, has enormous buffalo and elephant populations. During the dry season, Mana Pools on the Zambezi River has one of the highest concentrations of wildlife of any park on the continent.

Many of the safari camps cater to only six to 16 guests and offer personalized service, excellent accommodations and superb guiding. The professional guiding standards in Zimbabwe are, in fact, the highest of any country on the continent.

Instead of driving to the reserves, many people fly to the parks, taking advantage of scheduled charter flights connecting Victoria Falls, Hwange, Matobo Hills, Matusadona, Mana Pools and Harare. There are also a number of deluxe, first class and participation group or private mobile tented safaris available, during which guests are driven from park to park or combine driving and flying.

Game viewing is by open vehicle, and walking is allowed with a licensed Professional Guide who carries a high-caliber rifle at all times. Night game drives are conducted in some areas adjacent to the reserves and on some private concessions within the reserves.

During the dry season, Mana Pools National Park has one of the highestconcentrations of wildlife on the continent. The park is situatedon the southern side of the Lower Zambezi River downstream(northeast) of Lake Kariba and Victoria Falls.

This 845-square-mile (2,190-km2) park is uniquely characterized byfertile river terraces reaching inland for several miles from the slow moving Zambezi River. Small ponds and pools, such as Chine Pools and Long Pool, were formed as the river’s course slowly drifted northward. Reeds, sandbanks and huge mahogany and acacia trees near the river give way to dense mopane woodland to the park’s southern boundary along the steep Zambezi Escarpment.Mana Pools National Park covers part of the Middle Zambezi Valley, which is home for 12,000 elephant and 16,000 buffalo (with herds of over 500 each).

Mana Pools is one of the best parks in Africa for seeing African wild dog. Species commonly seen in the park include elephant, leopard, buffalo, waterbuck, greater kudu, zebra, eland, impala, bushbuck, lion and crocodile. Large pods of hippo are often seen lying on the sandbanks, soaking up the morning sun. Occasionally spotted are jackal, spotted hyena and the rare nyala. Large varieties of both woodland and water birds are present.

On my most recent visit we walked with our Professional Guide into a large herd of buffalo, and were, at one point, surrounded by them. Later in the walk we encountered lion, and an elephant that stood on its hind legs in an attempt to break off a large tree branch. In the afternoon we again tracked lion and approached the pride closely by a technique the Zimbabweans call “bum crawling” — sitting on your backside and using your arms to push you forward. Great fun! On foot early the next morning we approached a large bull elephant and a younger male elephant. The younger elephant gave us a mock charge but was stopped by the older bull, which seemed quite comfortable with our presence. A short time later we approached the older bull so closely that I could have leaned out and touched his tusks. We even followed them across a small channel to spend more time observing them. This is the closest I have ever been to wild elephant (less that 6 ft./2m), and it was certainly one of the most exciting experiences I have had in my 25 years of visiting Africa. This kind of adventure is only safe and only possible with a top Professional Guide. Mana Pools is by far the best reserve in Africa for this level of interaction with elephants.Also on this visit, I saw more greater kudu with magnificent horns than in any other reserve I can think of.

For the adventurous traveler, this is one of the best ways to experience the African bush and is one of my favorite safaris on the entire continent.

Traveling silently by canoe, you can paddle closely to wildlife that has come to drink along the shore. Most importantly, you actively participate in the adventure!

Canoe safaris are available, lasting from three to nine days and covering different stretches of the river. They are operated from Kariba Dam downstream for up to 159 miles (255 km) past Mana Pools National Park to Kanyemba near the Mozambique border.

The river is divided into four canoeing segments: 1) from below Kariba Dam through the Kariba Gorge to Chirundu, 2) from Chirundu to the border of Mana Pools, 3) along Mana Pools National Park and 4) downstream (east) of the park through the rugged Mupata Gorge to Kanyemba. The section (3) along Mana Pools National Park is the best section for wildlife viewing. In addition, no motorized boats are allowed on the Zimbabwe side of this stretch of the river, making it all the more attractive.

Three different “levels” of canoe safaris are available: (1) Budget (participation) canoe safaris do not have a support vehicle on land. Camping is often done on islands in the Zambezi where there are no facilities. Participants sleep in sleeping bags in small pup tents or under mosquito nets, and everyone pitches their own tents and helps with the chores. Walking inland is limited to 165 feet (50 m) from the riverbank.

(2) First class (full-service) canoe safaris are led by a Professional Guide licensed to escort you on walks. These safaris have a cook and camp attendants who take care of all the chores, which allows guests to spend all their time exploring the area and enjoying the bush. This option is far superior to the “Budget” option, because it allows you to canoe and go on vehicular game drives and walks. Guests are accommodated in comfortable tents (large enough to stand) with cots with mattresses, sheets and blankets. Bush shower tents and toilet tents are set up for the group. Bucket shower and bush toilet tents are usually separate from the sleeping tents, or in some cases, bush toilets may be ensuite.

(3) Luxury (full-service) canoe safaris have all the benefits of the First Class option with the added attraction of larger sleeping tents that each have ensuite bush showers and toilets.

On the second day of a recent canoe safari, we pulled onto the riverbank for lunch. As we started walking up the bank, we were greeted by a young bull elephant coming down for a drink. He trumpeted, kicked dirt and shook his head a number of times before he backed off enough to let us by.

Later, as we were having lunch, another bull elephant paid us a visit, approaching within 15 feet (4.5 m) of us. That’s close when the elephant is almost 10 feet (3 m) in height at the shoulder! As we wer about to return to the canoes, the bull elephant that had almost kept us from coming ashore earlier apparently decided he wanted a mud bath and completely covered our canoes with mud in the process. Our guide approached him from the riverbank above in an attempt to persuade him to leave, and the elephant responded by using the tip of his trunk to throw a large blob of mud, just missing our guide by inches!

On a previous canoe safari along Mana Pools, as we canoed past two large bull elephant walking along the river’s edge, our guide instructed us to pull into shore about 50 yards (50 m) downstream of them. The larger of the elephants continued walking toward us, eating apple ring acacia (Acacia albida) pods that had fallen from trees along the river.

Our guide and I crouched silently behind our canoe, with the rest of the group doing the same behind us. The elephant came closer and closer and closer until he was not more than 6 feet (2 m) from us. One step more and he would have stepped into the canoe. What a thrill! Eventually, after having a drink, he turned around and walked back down the shoreline that he came from.

Several times we saw elephant swimming from the mainland to islands in the Zambezi in search of food. We also saw hundreds of hippo, buffalo, waterbuck and impala and countless elephant, crocodile, lion and many other species. Although these canoe safaris are by no means marathons, participants must paddle their own canoes, which allows them to be more involved in the adventure. Your guide will instruct you on safety precautions. Previous canoe experience is not necessary. However, spending at least a few hours in a canoe before your African safari will allow you to feel more comfortable canoeing in a foreign environment.

The eastern part of Mana Pools has been designated a wilderness area in which only walking and canoeing along its shores are allowed. There are no roads or other signs of man.

Recently we joined a three-night/four-day walking safari (full service) escorted by a Professional Guide through the rich Mana Pools floodplains along the Zambezi River — an area teeming with wildlife. The only humans we saw for four days were canoeists off in the distance, paddling down the Zambezi River.

On the first day, we encountered a bull elephant that decided to mock charge us not once — but twice! On the first charge, it stopped about 30 feet (9 m) from us, and on the second charge — about 15 feet (4.5 m). Keep in mind that, as long as you do what your guide says, there is little danger — only a big rush of adrenaline!

Shortly after the charge, we reached camp. Later, under a full moon, the same elephant approached our camp, and we walked out to meet it. The elephant trumpeted, then gave us a mock charge in the moonlight!

On the last day of the safari, we encountered so many breeding herds (females with their young) of elephant that we had to continuously backtrack and look for alternative paths between them in order to get to our pickup point.

Because it was late in the dry season and food was scarce, most of the large elephant herds had broken into several small ones. Our guide climbed several termite mounds to scout out the area. We even found ourselves walking through “adrenaline grass” — thick, golden grass often over 7 feet (2 m) in height that is so thick you would almost bump into a buffalo or elephant before seeing it.

Events like this are why walking safaris, and safaris in general, are so popular: You never know what is going to happen next!

Walking safaris like this one may sound a bit risky. They are, however, quite safe — as long as the safari is conducted by a fully licensed Professional Guide. Just use common sense and enjoy the adventure.

The best time to visit the park, for one of the finest exhibitions of wildlife on the continent, is at the end of the dry season (July- October) when large numbers of elephant, buffalo, waterbuck and impala come to the river to drink and graze on the lush grasses along its banks. Game viewing is also good in May, June and November. During the rainy season (December-March), many large land mammals move away from the river toward the escarpment. However, game viewing in the area near Chikwenya Camp is good year-round.

Because many roads within the park are closed during the rainy season, from early November until the end of April, the camps (except for Chikwenya) are also closed during that period. Charter flights operate into three airstrips in the park. Gasoline (petrol) is not available in the park, and powerboats are not allowed. Four-wheel-drive vehicles are recommended in the dry season and necessary in the rainy season.

CLASS A: * Chikwenya Camp is situated on the banks of the Zambezi River and at the eastern end of Mana Pools. The camp is protected by large mahogany trees that form a natural dining area. The nine luxury tents under thatch have ensuite bathrooms, and the lodge offers walking, canoeing, fishing, and game viewing by vehicle and by boat. Alternatively, you may sit in one of the hides and wait for the wildlife to come to you! The camp is open year-round. * Ruckomechi Camp, just outside the western boundary of the park, has 10 comfortable chalets including one family room (20 beds) with ensuite facilities. Game drives, walks, boat game drives, hides and canoeing are offered.
CLASS B: * Vundu Tented Camp is located within the park and has six large tents with ensuite, open-air bathrooms. From your camp you may take leisurely canoeing safaris, game drives and walks to explore and appreciate the rich floodplains and river channels.
CLASS D & F: National Parks accommodations include Musangu Lodge and Muchichiri Lodge.
CAMPING: * Nyamepi Camp has 29 caravan/camping sites and ablution blocks with hot and cold water. The exclusive camps, which are limited to one group at a time, are Mucheni Camp, Nkupe Camp,
Ndungu Camp and Gwaya (Old Tree Lodge) Camp.